Nartiang Monoliths

In the rolling green landscapes of Meghalaya, where mist often clings to the hillsides, sits Nartiang – a village holding a tangible connection to the past. This historical site, a testament to the might and artistic skill of the ancient Jaintia Kingdom, is home to a unique collection of megalithic structures. These upright stones, or monoliths, some towering over 8 meters, stand solemn and enduring, telling a silent story of power, reverence, and community.

History & Context

The Nartiang Monoliths are believed to have been erected primarily between the 16th and 17th centuries CE, a period corresponding to the flourishing era of the Jaintia Kingdom. While the precise details of their individual placement are lost to time, local traditions attribute the tallest monolith, Moo Kynthai, to a warrior named U Mar Phalangki, commemorating his victories. The Jaintia rulers, who held sway over a vast territory encompassing parts of present-day Meghalaya and Bangladesh, left behind a legacy of architectural and cultural significance. These megaliths served various purposes, from marking territories and honouring heroes to commemorating significant events and rituals. The sheer scale of some of these stones suggests a highly organised society capable of complex engineering and concerted community effort, reflecting the political and social structures of the time.

What Makes It Distinctive

What truly distinguishes the Nartiang site is not just the presence of megaliths, which are common across the Northeast Indian landscape, but their sheer concentration and the story of U Mar Phalangki. The Moo Kynthai, standing at an impressive 8.23 meters (27 feet), is considered one of the tallest, if not the tallest, upright monolith in the entire Jaintia Hills. Adjacent to these towering sentinels are a number of Moo Shynrang (flat table-like stones), believed to have been used for religious ceremonies and community gatherings. The arrangement of the stones, often in clusters, suggests a deliberate design, possibly a ceremonial space or a memorial ground. Unlike many other single-standing stones or smaller clusters, Nartiang presents a veritable field of these ancient monuments, allowing a visitor to walk amongst them and gain a strong sense of the scale of the historical community that created them. The site also includes remnants of an ancient bridge and a temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Durga, indicating a syncretic blend of animistic and Hindu traditions during the Jaintia era.

Best Time to Visit

The cooler, drier months from October to April are ideal for visiting. During this period, the weather is pleasant, with clear skies making for excellent photographic opportunities. Temperatures range from 10°C to 25°C. The monsoon season (June to September) brings heavy rainfall, which can make travel challenging and dampen the experience, though the landscape is verdant. March-April offers comfortable weather before the heat of summer sets in, while November and December provide crisp, cool air, perfect for exploring the open-air site.

How to Reach

Nartiang is located in the West Jaintia Hills district of Meghalaya. The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Guwahati, Assam, approximately 120 km away. From Guwahati, one can hire a taxi or take a shared sumo/bus to Jowai, which is about 65 km from Shillong. Jowai is the district headquarters of West Jaintia Hills. From Jowai, Nartiang village is a further 25 km, typically a 45-minute to 1-hour drive by local taxi or bus.

Nearest Rail Head: Guwahati Railway Station (GHY).

Road Route: From Guwahati, head towards Shillong (NH6), then continue towards Jowai (NH6). From Jowai, take State Highway 4 to Nartiang.

Guwahati to Shillong: ~100 km / 3-4 hours. Shillong to Jowai: ~65 km / 1.5-2 hours. Jowai to Nartiang: ~25 km / 45 minutes - 1 hour.

Permits & Entry

For Indian citizens, no Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to enter Meghalaya. For foreign nationals, no Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is required for Meghalaya. There is no entry fee to visit the monolith site itself. Visitors can explore the grounds freely. Information regarding any specific opening hours for the site is not officially published; generally, it is accessible during daylight hours. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling if they have specific timing concerns.

Nearby Attractions

• Krang Suri Falls: A breathtaking multi-tiered waterfall with clear blue pools, perfect for swimming and photography, located near Amlarem.
• Dawki & Umngot River: Known for its crystal-clear waters where boats appear to float on air, offering an unforgettable boating experience, near the Bangladesh border.
• Jowai: The district headquarters, offering a glimpse into Jaintia culture, including local markets and the Thadlaskein Lake.
• Tyrshi Falls: A beautiful cascade located along the Jowai-Shillong highway, often compared to Elephant Falls in Shillong.

Traveller Tips

1. Respect Local Customs: The site holds historical and cultural significance; visitors should avoid climbing on the monoliths or disturbing the area.
2. Footwear: Wear comfortable walking shoes as you will be traversing uneven terrain around the monoliths.
3. Connectivity: Mobile network coverage can be sporadic in rural Meghalaya, including Nartiang. Download offline maps.
4. Photography: Photography is generally permitted, but always be respectful of any local people you may wish to photograph.
5. Accommodation: Limited stay options in Nartiang itself. Jowai offers more guesthouses and hotels.
6. Food: There are small local eateries in Nartiang offering simple Jaintia cuisine, but options are few. It is advisable to eat in Jowai or carry snacks.
7. Weather Preparedness: Carry light rain gear even outside the monsoon, as Meghalaya weather can be unpredictable. A light jacket is also recommended for evenings.