Smit

The rolling hills of East Khasi Hills, often shrouded in mist, shelter Smit, a village that serves as the enduring heart of the Hima Mylliem, one of the most historically significant Khasi states. This is not simply a geographic point; it is a repository of Khasi tradition, where the past is actively lived and celebrated, particularly through its governance structure and annual rituals.

History & Context

Smit's prominence stems from its role as the traditional headquarters of the Syiem (chief) of Hima Mylliem. The Khasi political system is characterized by Himas, or traditional states, each governed by an elected Syiem, advised by a Durbar (council). Hima Mylliem, historically one of the largest and most influential Himas, maintained its significant cultural and administrative functions even under British rule, albeit with modifications. Smit has thus remained a central locus for decision-making and cultural preservation concerning the Mylliem people for centuries. It's not a museum piece; the traditional governance system, with its Durbars and customary laws, continues to operate from this village, guiding local life and upholding Khasi identity.

What Makes It Distinctive

The most defining aspect of Smit is its direct association with the Syiem of Mylliem and, by extension, its role as the primary venue for the Shad Suk Mynsiem, or the 'dance of the joyful heart'. This annual thanksgiving dance, typically held in April, is a cornerstone of Khasi cultural life. Unlike similar festivals elsewhere, the Shad Suk Mynsiem in Smit draws participants and spectators from across the Khasi Hills, making it a powerful demonstration of community and cultural continuity. The dance is performed in traditional attire, with women in intricate jewellery and men in ceremonial turbans and daggers, celebrating fertility, good harvest, and the continuity of life. The village is also home to the official palace (iing Syiem) of the Syiem, a structure that embodies the traditional Khasi architectural style with its distinctive timber and thatch elements, though often incorporating modern materials today.

Another distinctive feature is the preservation of the traditional Khasi court, the Dorbar, which addresses local disputes according to ancient customs. Visitors might observe proceedings if they are fortunate, offering a rare glimpse into indigenous legal practices that predate colonial imposition. The village maintains a strong sense of community and connection to the land, reflected in its agricultural practices and reliance on traditional crafts.

Best Time to Visit

The optimal time to visit Smit is during the Shad Suk Mynsiem festival, usually in April. While specific dates vary annually based on traditional calendars, this period offers the most vibrant cultural experience. The weather in April is generally pleasant, with moderate temperatures and less rainfall before the onset of the monsoon. Outside of the festival, October to March provides comfortable, cool, and dry weather, ideal for exploring the surrounding countryside without the intense heat or heavy rains of other seasons. January can be quite cold, particularly in the mornings and evenings.

How to Reach

Smit is located approximately 16-17 kilometers east of Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya.

• Nearest Airport: Shillong Airport (Umroi Airport) (SHL) is about 45 kilometers from Smit. However, Guwahati's Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Assam is the major international hub, roughly 120 kilometers from Shillong. From GAU, taxis and shared cabs are readily available to Shillong. The drive from Guwahati to Shillong takes approximately 3-4 hours, and then another 45-60 minutes to Smit.
• Nearest Railhead: The nearest major railway station is Guwahati (GHY). From Guwahati railway station, one can hire a taxi or take a bus to Shillong and then proceed to Smit.
• Road Route: From Shillong, Smit can be reached by local taxis or shared sumos. The drive is scenic, traversing winding roads through pine forests and small settlements. The journey from Shillong typically takes about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic and road conditions.

Permits & Entry

Meghalaya does not require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Indian citizens. Foreign nationals do not require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to visit Smit. There are no specific entry fees for the village itself. However, during the Shad Suk Mynsiem festival, there might be designated viewing areas or facilities that may have a nominal charge, but information is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

• Laitlum Canyon: Offers panoramic views of deep gorges and rolling hills, approximately an hour's drive from Smit.
• Mawphlang Sacred Forest: An ancient grove preserved by traditional Khasi customs, about 25 kilometers from Smit, known for its biodiversity.
• Shillong: The capital city, offering markets, colonial architecture, and dining options, around 17 kilometers away.
• Elephant Falls: A multi-tiered waterfall near Shillong, popular with tourists for its natural beauty.
• Ward's Lake: A charming artificial lake with boating facilities in the heart of Shillong.
• Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures: A museum in Shillong showcasing the diverse cultures of Northeast India.

Traveller Tips

1. Connectivity: Mobile network coverage is generally good in Smit, but data speeds might vary. Wi-Fi is rare outside Shillong.
2. ATMs: There are no ATMs in Smit. The nearest ATMs are in Shillong, so carry sufficient cash for local expenses.
3. Dress Code: While there is no strict dress code, modest clothing is appreciated, especially when visiting religious or cultural sites. During the Shad Suk Mynsiem, locals dress in their finest traditional attire.
4. Language: Khasi is the local language. English and Hindi are understood by many, especially those involved in tourism.
5. Accommodation: Accommodation options in Smit are very limited, mostly guesthouses or homestays. Most visitors prefer to stay in Shillong and make a day trip to Smit.
6. Photography: Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially during ceremonies. Be respectful and maintain a distance during cultural performances.
7. Local Transport: Shared taxis and local buses ply between Shillong and points near Smit, but for convenience, hiring a private taxi is advisable.