South West Khasi Hills district

The terrain in South West Khasi Hills is defined by its undulating hills, deep valleys, and a network of rivers that cut through the landscape, most notably the Kynshi River. This district, often less explored than its more famous counterparts, offers a glimpse into traditional Khasi life intertwined with a landscape shaped by both nature and human ingenuity, particularly through its living root bridges.

History & Context

South West Khasi Hills district was carved out of the larger West Khasi Hills district on August 3, 2012, making it one of Meghalaya's newer administrative divisions. Its formation aimed to improve administration and facilitate development in this region, which was previously remote. The area has a long history as part of the Khasi domain, with communities having lived here for centuries, maintaining a traditional way of life characterized by matriarchal societal structures and strong ties to their land. The district's geological makeup is significant, with coal reserves influencing some economic activities, though these are increasingly regulated. Traditional agricultural practices, including wet rice cultivation and horticulture, remain central to the local economy and culture.

What Makes It Distinctive

One of the most striking features of South West Khasi Hills is the prevalence of living root bridges. Unlike their more famous counterparts in areas like Cherrapunji, many of the district's root bridges are less frequented by tourists, offering a more pristine and introspective experience. These bio-engineered wonders, locally known as jingkieng jri, are crafted by guiding the aerial roots of the Ficus elastica tree across rivers and streams. Over decades, these roots grow and strengthen to form robust, natural bridges. The skill and patience required to cultivate these bridges reflect a profound symbiotic relationship between the Khasi people and their environment. Some of these bridges are centuries old, serving as vital pathways for local communities. The Mawkyrwat area, in particular, has several notable examples. Beyond the root bridges, the district's traditional Khasi monoliths and sacred groves offer insights into the indigenous belief systems and ancestral reverence that define the cultural fabric of the region. Many villages preserve these ancient stone structures and forest patches, considered abodes of spirits or ancestral resting places.

Best Time to Visit

The climate in South West Khasi Hills is generally subtropical highland. The ideal time to visit is during the post-monsoon and winter months, from October to March. During this period, the weather is cool and pleasant, with clear skies, making it perfect for trekking, exploring root bridges, and outdoor activities. October and November see the landscape still verdant from the monsoon, transitioning to cooler, drier days. December to February are the coldest months, with daytime temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C, and nights can be chilly. March sees temperatures gradually rising, signalling the approach of summer. The monsoon season, from June to September, brings heavy rainfall, making travel challenging due to slippery trails and occasional road closures, though the landscape is at its most vibrant green.

How to Reach

The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Guwahati, Assam, approximately 120-150 km from different parts of the district. From Guwahati, one can hire a taxi or take a shared cab to Mawkyrwat, the district headquarters. The drive from Guwahati to Mawkyrwat is approximately 4-5 hours, depending on road conditions. The nearest major railhead is also Guwahati. From Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, Mawkyrwat is approximately 85-95 km, taking around 3-4 hours by road. Public and private transport options, including shared taxis, are available from Shillong's Bara Bazar area. Information on precise bus schedules and taxi fares is not officially published and may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Permits & Entry

For Indian citizens, no Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to enter Meghalaya, including South West Khasi Hills district. Foreign nationals do not require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) to visit Meghalaya. However, specific entry fees may apply for certain attractions like parks or caves, or for local guides in some remote villages. Information on these fees is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

• Mawkyrwat: The district headquarters, offering a central point for exploring the surrounding villages and root bridges.
• Rangthong: Known for its traditional Khasi monoliths and a serene rural atmosphere.
• Wahlyngket: A village where several ancient living root bridges can be found, providing a glimpse into indigenous engineering.
• Ranikor: Located on the international border with Bangladesh, known for its pristine river and fishing opportunities.
• Jakrem Hot Spring: Though technically in West Khasi Hills, it's a popular natural sulfur spring frequented by locals for its therapeutic properties, roughly an hour's drive from Mawkyrwat.

Traveller Tips

1. Connectivity: Mobile network coverage can be sporadic, especially in remote villages. BSNL generally offers wider, albeit sometimes slow, coverage. Consider carrying a local SIM card.
2. ATMs: ATMs are available in Mawkyrwat, the district headquarters, but are scarce elsewhere. Carry sufficient cash for village visits and local purchases.
3. Footwear: If planning to trek to root bridges or explore villages, sturdy, waterproof hiking shoes with good grip are essential, especially during or after the monsoon.
4. Accommodation: Options are limited to basic guesthouses in Mawkyrwat and homestays in some villages. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak season.
5. Local Transport: Shared taxis are the primary mode of inter-village transport, but their frequency can be low. Private taxis can be hired from Mawkyrwat.
6. Respect Local Customs: The Khasi people have a strong cultural identity. Dress modestly, especially when visiting sacred sites or villages, and always ask for permission before photographing people.
7. Ethical Tourism: Support local economies by purchasing handicrafts directly from artisans and opting for local guides. Minimize plastic waste and respect the natural environment. Information on specific guide fees is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.