Choskar

The Choskar festival marks the New Year for the Monpa people, primarily observed in the Tawang and West Kameng districts of Arunachal Pradesh. This significant cultural event is deeply rooted in the Monpa community's Buddhist traditions, celebrating a new cycle of life, growth, and spiritual renewal. It is a time for communal gatherings, elaborate rituals, and a renewal of faith.

History & Context

The Monpa people, largely followers of Tibetan Buddhism, celebrate Choskar in accordance with the lunisolar Tibetan calendar. Historically, the festival aligns with the agricultural cycle, particularly the preparation of fields for planting and the general well-being of the crops. While its spiritual core remains constant, the festival has adapted over centuries, reflecting both the ancient Buddhist practices brought from Tibet and the local customs of the Monpa tribes. The rituals performed during Choskar are believed to cleanse the community of negative influences from the past year and usher in prosperity and good fortune for the upcoming one. It's a period of deep introspection and communal solidarity, reinforcing the social and spiritual fabric of Monpa society.

What Makes It Distinctive

Choskar is distinguished by several unique practices that set it apart from other New Year celebrations. Central to the festival is the reading of sacred Buddhist scriptures (Kanjur and Tenjur) by monks in the monasteries and village gompas. This continuous recitation, often lasting several days, is a profound spiritual exercise, invoking blessings for the entire community and ensuring a bountiful harvest. Another notable aspect is the practice of 'Chham' or mask dances, performed by monks. These vibrant and symbolic dances depict various deities and mythological figures, acting out allegorical tales that convey Buddhist teachings. The masks, often intricately crafted and brightly painted, are works of art themselves. Villagers also engage in 'Lho-Chhar', a traditional ritual where they offer prayers at sacred sites, circumambulate fields, and scatter grains to appease spirits and pray for healthy crops. The local cuisine prepared during Choskar, such as thukpa and momos, alongside special rice wine (chang), adds a celebratory flavor to the spiritual observances.

Best Time to Visit

Choskar typically falls in the spring months, usually February or March, though the exact dates vary annually according to the Tibetan calendar. This period in Tawang and West Kameng generally offers clear skies and moderately cold weather, making it suitable for travel. Days are usually sunny, with temperatures ranging from 5°C to 15°C, while nights can drop below freezing. Visitors should consult the specific calendar for the current year to confirm festival dates.

How to Reach

The most common entry point for Tawang, where Choskar is widely celebrated, is via Guwahati (Assam).

• By Air: The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Guwahati. From Guwahati, one can take a connecting flight to Tezpur Airport (TEZ) in Assam, which is closer to Tawang. From Tezpur, it's approximately 325 km (around 10-12 hours drive) to Tawang. Alternatively, visitors can fly to Dibrugarh Airport (DIB) in Assam, which is about 400 km from Tawang, requiring a longer road journey.
• By Rail: The nearest railway station is Tezpur (Dekargaon). From Tezpur, taxis and shared vehicles are available for the onward journey to Tawang. Guwahati also has a major railway station, Guwahati Railway Station (GHY), from where travellers can proceed by road or bus.
• By Road: From Guwahati, Tawang is approximately 500 km, a drive that can take 14-16 hours, often broken into two days with an overnight stop in places like Dirang or Bomdila. The route involves traversing winding mountain roads through picturesque landscapes. Shared sumo taxis and state-run buses operate on this route, though bus services can be infrequent and require prior booking.

Permits & Entry

For Indian citizens not resident in Arunachal Pradesh, an Inner Line Permit (ILP) is mandatory. This can be obtained online through the Arunachal Pradesh government portal or in person from Resident Commissioner offices in major cities like Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, and Tezpur. Foreign nationals require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to enter Arunachal Pradesh. The PAP can be obtained from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India, or through registered tour operators. It's advisable to apply for both permits well in advance of travel. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling for any changes in permit regulations or costs.

Nearby Attractions

• Tawang Monastery: The largest monastery in India and an important centre of Gelugpa Buddhism, offering profound spiritual insights and architectural grandeur.
• Sela Pass: A high-altitude mountain pass, often snow-covered, offering dramatic views and home to the sacred Sela Lake.
• Dirang Dzong (Kalachakra): An ancient fort built in the 17th century, providing historical context and panoramic views of the valley.
• Chillipam Monastery: A relatively newer, yet architecturally striking monastery located near Rupa, known for its vibrant colours and peaceful ambiance.
• Jaswant Garh War Memorial: A tribute to Indian Army soldier Jaswant Singh Rawat, located near Sela Pass, offering a poignant historical perspective.
• Urgyelling Gompa: The birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso, an essential pilgrimage site for Buddhists.

Traveller Tips

1. Acclimatisation: Tawang is at a high altitude (around 3,048 m / 10,000 ft). Spend a day or two in Dirang or Bomdila for acclimatisation to avoid altitude sickness.
2. Connectivity: Mobile network coverage (especially for data) can be erratic. BSNL and Airtel tend to offer better, though still inconsistent, service in remote areas.
3. Dress Code: Dress warmly in layers, even during spring. Traditional attire for visiting monasteries is modest, covering shoulders and knees.
4. Footwear: Comfortable walking shoes with good grip are essential, as you'll be navigating uneven terrain and monastery complexes.
5. Respectful Photography: Always seek permission before photographing people, especially monks and local residents during rituals.
6. Cash: Carry sufficient cash as ATMs are scarce outside major towns, and card payments are rarely accepted in smaller establishments.
7. Road Conditions: Roads can be challenging, especially during winter or monsoon. Factor in extra travel time and prefer robust vehicles like SUVs.
8. Accommodation: Book accommodations in Tawang well in advance, particularly during festival times, as options can be limited.