Bru (Reang, Mizoram) people

The air in the Jampui Hills can feel heavy with stories. For the Bru people, formerly of Mizoram and for more than two decades refugees in neighboring Tripura, this air now carries the possibility of a new beginning. Their journey is one of the most poignant tales of displacement and homecoming in modern Northeast India. After years in makeshift camps, a historic agreement has seen many find permanent settlement in Tripura, while a determined number have undertaken the difficult process of returning to their ancestral lands in Mizoram. To understand them is to understand not just a tribe, but the very meaning of home.

History & Context

The story of the modern Bru community is forever marked by the year 1997. Tensions between the Mizo and Bru communities in Mizoram, rooted in political and ethnic disputes primarily concerning the demand for a Bru Autonomous District Council, escalated into conflict. This triggered a mass exodus of over 30,000 Bru (also known as Reang) people, who fled their homes in Mizoram to seek refuge in North Tripura, mostly settling in camps around Kanchanpur and Panisagar.

For over two decades, they lived as internally displaced people in these camps, with several attempts at repatriation failing due to disagreements over safety, land rights, and rehabilitation packages. The situation finally broke its long impasse in January 2020 with a landmark quadripartite agreement signed by the Government of India, the state governments of Tripura and Mizoram, and Bru-Reang representatives. While the agreement's primary focus was the permanent settlement of the displaced families within Tripura, it also opened the door for those still wishing to return to Mizoram to be included in the state's electoral rolls and receive support. This has led to a slow, complex, and ongoing process of repatriation for thousands of individuals back to designated resettlement sites in Mizoram's Mamit, Kolasib, and Lunglei districts.

What Makes It Distinctive

Beyond their recent history, the Bru possess a distinct cultural identity. Their language, Kaubru, is a Tibeto-Burman language, closely related to the Kokborok language of Tripura. While they do not have a formal script, both Latin and Bengali scripts are sometimes used for writing.

One of the most defining cultural markers is the grand festival of Buisu, celebrated in April to mark the end of the harvest season and the beginning of the new year. It is a three-day celebration: the first day, 'Bui-ma', involves preparing the community space and feasting; the second, 'Buisu', is the main day of dance, music, and festivities; and the third, 'Bui-khlum', is a concluding ceremony.

Their spiritual life is traditionally animistic, involving the worship of various deities associated with nature. However, a significant portion of the community follows a syncretic Hindu sect founded in the 1940s by a spiritual leader named Rata, which blends traditional beliefs with Vaishnavism. They are also masters of bamboo craftsmanship, a skill born from a life lived in and around the forest. This is most famously expressed in the Hojagiri dance, a mesmerizing performance where women balance on earthen pitchers while moving rhythmically. Though more commonly associated with the Reangs of Tripura, it is a shared cultural treasure.

Best Time to Visit

The most culturally significant time to visit is during the Buisu festival in mid-April. This offers a rare opportunity to witness their traditional music, dance, and community spirit. The weather in Mizoram during April is generally pleasant, with the onset of pre-monsoon showers, making the landscape lush and green. Otherwise, the post-monsoon months from October to March offer clear skies and comfortable temperatures for travel across the state.

How to Reach

Access to Bru resettlement areas, primarily in Mamit district, begins from Mizoram's capital, Aizawl.

• By Air: The nearest airport is Lengpui Airport (LGG) in Aizawl, which has direct flights from Kolkata, Guwahati, and Delhi.
• By Rail: Mizoram has no major rail network. The nearest major railway station is Silchar (SCL) in Assam, approximately 175 km (about 6-7 hours by road) from Aizawl.
• By Road: From Aizawl, Mamit town is about 85 km away, a drive of 3-4 hours through winding hill roads. Taxis and sumo (shared jeep) services are available from Aizawl.

Permits & Entry

All non-residents of Mizoram require permits to enter the state.

• Domestic Tourists: An Inner Line Permit (ILP) is mandatory. It can be obtained from Mizoram House in major cities like Kolkata, Silchar, Shillong, Guwahati, and New Delhi, or upon arrival at Lengpui Airport.
• International Tourists: Foreign nationals must register themselves at the office of the Superintendent of Police (CID/SB) of Mizoram within 24 hours of arrival.

Information on permit costs is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

While visiting the Bru communities is the primary focus, the surrounding region of Mizoram offers other points of interest:

• Dampa Tiger Reserve: Located in Mamit district, this is one of the state's most important wildlife sanctuaries, though sightings are rare.
• Aizawl: The state capital offers attractions like the Mizoram State Museum, Solomon's Temple, and bustling Burra Bazar for a glimpse into Mizo life.
• Vantawng Falls: Located near Thenzawl (a considerable drive from Mamit), it is the highest waterfall in Mizoram, cascading amidst dense forests.
• Reiek Tlang: A popular trekking destination near Aizawl, offering panoramic views and a model Mizo village.
• Tamdil Lake: A natural lake located about 85 km from Aizawl, offering boating and a peaceful retreat.

Traveller Tips

• Engage Ethically: These are not tourist villages but communities rebuilding their lives. Visit with a local guide or organization that has established relationships.
• Ask Permission: Always ask before taking photographs of people or their homes. Respect their privacy and history.
• Carry Cash: ATM facilities are rare to non-existent outside of district headquarters like Mamit town. Carry sufficient cash for all expenses.
• Connectivity: Mobile networks can be weak or absent in resettlement areas. Inform your family of your itinerary beforehand.
• Learn a Few Words: A simple 'Chibai' (hello in Mizo) is appreciated. Learning a greeting in Kaubru is even better if you have a local guide to teach you.
• Support Local Crafts: Purchasing bamboo crafts or woven textiles directly from artisans is a meaningful way to support the local economy.
• Understand the Context: Read about their history of displacement. It will provide crucial context and enable a more sensitive and respectful interaction.
• Modest Dress: Dress modestly, especially when visiting homes or community spaces, in keeping with the generally conservative local culture.