Chakhesang people

A Naga community known for its formidable warriors, intricate textiles, and sophisticated sustainable farming traditions.

The road out of Kohima climbs and winds, leaving the state capital behind for the high ridges of Phek district. Here, in villages that cling to steep hillsides, the air is thin and the slopes are carved into a masterpiece of agricultural engineering. These are the lands of the Chakhesang, a people whose name itself tells a story of unity and whose way of life is deeply connected to the rhythms of the earth.

They are a community of cultivators and weavers, once feared for their martial prowess. Their identity is a relatively modern construct, formalized in 1946. The name is an acronym, drawing from the three primary groups that formed this collective identity: 'Cha' for Chokri, 'Khe' for Kheza, and 'Sang' for the Southern Sangtam people who lived amongst them. This alliance created a distinct cultural and administrative unit within the larger Naga family.

Historically, life was organized around the village, with a strong warrior tradition central to its protection. Today, that discipline is channeled into other pursuits, most notably their complex agricultural systems and the creation of textiles that are recognised for their quality and cultural significance.

What Makes It Distinctive

Two practices, in particular, set this community apart. The first is their famous terraced wet rice cultivation, a system of agronomy that reaches its zenith in the Ruza system, found in villages like Chizami. Ruza is a communally managed water-harvesting practice where channels divert monsoon streams to irrigate entire hillsides of paddy fields. This centuries-old system ensures equitable water distribution and soil conservation, a model of sustainability long before the term became fashionable.

Secondly, their textiles are a core part of their identity. The "Chakhesang Shawl" is a registered Geographical Indication (GI) product, a testament to its unique heritage. Woven by women on backstrap looms, these textiles are rich in symbolic meaning. Different patterns and colours once signified a person's social standing, clan, or achievements in war. The shawls, with their characteristic stripes and geometric motifs in red, black, and white, are not just clothing but narrative maps of a person's life and lineage.

Best Time to Visit

January: Ideal for festivals. The Chokri group celebrates Sukrunye, a ten-day festival of sanctification and blessing, marked by elaborate rituals, community feasts, and traditional games. The weather is cold and dry, with clear skies.

April-May: The Kheza group celebrates Tsükhenyie, a festival marking the end of a year's hard work and praying for a fruitful new season. This is the beginning of spring, with warmer temperatures and blossoming rhododendrons at higher altitudes like Pfütsero.

October-November: The post-monsoon period offers lush green landscapes, pleasant weather, and the buzz of the harvest season. It's an excellent time for trekking and village walks before the deep winter cold sets in.

How to Reach

By Air: The nearest airport is Dimapur Airport (DMU), located approximately 215 km from Phek town. From the airport, you must hire a taxi or take a shared sumo (jeep).

By Rail: The nearest railway station is also in Dimapur. It has good connectivity with Guwahati, Kolkata, and other major Indian cities.

By Road: From Dimapur, it's a 3-4 hour drive to Kohima (74 km). The onward journey from Kohima to Phek town takes another 5-6 hours (approx. 145 km) on winding mountain roads. The journey is scenic but can be slow.

Permits & Entry

Inner Line Permit (ILP): For domestic travellers (Indian citizens not residing in Nagaland), an ILP is mandatory. It can be obtained online through the official Nagaland ILP portal or in person from Nagaland House in major cities like Delhi, Kolkata, and Guwahati.

Foreign Tourists: Foreigners are no longer required to obtain a Protected Area Permit (PAP). However, they must register themselves with the local Foreigner's Registration Office (FRO) at the district headquarters within 24 hours of arrival.

Specific fees for permits or entry are not consistently published. Information is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

Pfütsero Town: The highest and coldest town in Nagaland, offering panoramic views and a chance to experience a different microclimate.
Glory Peak: Located near Pfütsero, offering rewarding treks with views over the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Chizami Village: A model village known for its community-led initiatives in sustainable agriculture (Ruza) and women's empowerment through weaving.
Dzüko Valley: Accessible from the Angami region, but a popular multi-day trek for those exploring southern Nagaland. Famous for its seasonal flowers and unique landscape.
Kohima: The state capital, home to the poignant World War II Cemetery and the State Museum, providing broader context on Naga history and culture.

Traveller Tips

Carry Cash: ATMs are scarce outside of Phek town and may not always be functional. Carry sufficient cash for homestays, food, and local transport.
Connectivity is Limited: Mobile networks and internet access are weak to non-existent in many villages. Inform family of your itinerary beforehand.
Homestays are Key: To truly experience the culture, opt for a community-vetted homestay. This provides authentic interaction and supports the local economy directly.
Ask Before Clicking: Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially elders or during religious ceremonies. A smile and a gesture go a long way.
Respect Local Customs: Dress modestly, especially when visiting homes or religious sites. Avoid loud behaviour and be respectful of the village's social structure and elders.
Road Conditions Vary: Be prepared for long travel times. Roads are improving but can be affected by weather, especially during the monsoon (June-September).
Pack Layers: Even in summer, evenings in the hills can be cool. A waterproof jacket and warm layers are essential, especially for winter visits.
Learn a Few Words: A simple "U ra ve?" (How are you?) in Chokri can open doors and build rapport instantly.

Living Roots Expert Notes

From an expedition planning perspective, the Chakhesang region offers a depth that contrasts with the more frequented Angami and Ao areas. We time our visits to coincide with the Sukrunye festival in January. While the Hornbill Festival is a grand spectacle, experiencing a community-specific festival like Sukrunye in its home village is far more intimate and powerful.

Our guests are consistently surprised by the sophistication of the Ruza farming system. To truly appreciate it, we arrange for a walk with a village elder in Chizami who can explain the water-sharing channels and the social agreements that underpin the entire system. It transforms a view of 'simple' terraces into a landscape of complex social and ecological knowledge.

One thing a repeat visitor learns is the importance of the women's weaving collectives. They are not just craft centres; they are a cornerstone of the local economy and social change. Engaging with them respectfully—and purchasing textiles directly—is one of the most impactful things a traveller can do here. It's a world away from buying a shawl in a city market.

Frequently asked

Do I need a special permit to visit the Chakhesang areas in Phek?

Yes. Indian citizens from other states need an Inner Line Permit (ILP), which can be applied for online. Foreign nationals must register with the local Foreigner's Registration Office (FRO) in Phek within 24 hours of arrival.

What is the best time of year to visit Phek district?

The best time is either in January for the Sukrunye festival or from October to November for pleasant weather and clear skies after the monsoon. April is also a good time for the Tsükhenyie festival.

What kind of accommodation is available?

Accommodation is basic. Options include government guesthouses in towns like Phek and Pfütsero, and increasingly, community-run homestays in villages like Chizami. Do not expect luxury hotels.

Is Phek district safe for a solo traveller?

Yes, it is generally considered safe. Nagas are hospitable people. However, due to remoteness and limited infrastructure, it's advisable to travel with a local guide who understands the culture and logistics.

Will my phone and internet work in Phek?

Connectivity is very limited. You may get a signal from major providers in Phek town, but expect little to no service in the villages. Plan to be offline for large parts of your trip.

What is the local food like?

The diet is based on rice, foraged greens, and meat, often pork or chicken. Dishes are typically boiled or smoked and flavoured with bamboo shoot and local chillies, including the famous Bhut Jolokia. Vegetarians can find options but should communicate their needs clearly.

How can I ethically buy a Chakhesang shawl?

The best way is to buy directly from the weavers in a village or through a trusted women's collective, such as the one in Chizami. This ensures the artisan receives the full economic benefit of her skilled work.

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