Hmar people

On the rolling hills of southern Manipur, the rhythm of community life is often set by the church bell and the agricultural calendar. This is the heartland of the Hmar, a people whose story is one of movement, faith, and fierce cultural pride. Their villages, often clusters of wooden houses perched on slopes, overlook verdant valleys where they have cultivated rice for generations. The air here carries stories passed down through song and verse, speaking of a time before borders and a long journey from a mythical northern homeland.

History & Context

The Hmar are part of the broader Chin-Kuki-Mizo ethnic group, with a shared oral tradition that points to an origin in ‘Sinlung’, a believed-to-be cave or settlement in present-day China. Their history is a chronicle of migrations south and west, through Myanmar and into the hills of Northeast India. This shared ancestry connects them to numerous other tribes in the region, including the Mizo, Kuki, Paite, and Zou. They are officially recognized as a Scheduled Tribe in Manipur, Mizoram, and Assam.

First contact with the British Empire in the 19th century was marked by resistance, followed by a period of profound change. The arrival of Welsh Presbyterian missionaries in the early 20th century, particularly Watkin Roberts, led to widespread conversion to Christianity. Today, the church is a central institution in Hmar society, influencing social structure, education, and festivals, while coexisting with older customs and a deep-rooted identity.

What Makes It Distinctive

The most vibrant expression of Hmar culture is the Sikpui Ruoi (Winter Festival). Traditionally a post-harvest festival celebrating a bountiful crop, it's a spectacle of community feasting, music, and dance. Central to the celebration is the rhythmic clang of the darbu (gongs) and the beat of the khuang (drum). Dancers, dressed in intricately woven puan (shawls) with motifs like Puanlaikem and Thangsuopuan, perform traditional dances like the Chawn Laam (Eagle Dance). While its agricultural roots run deep, today 'Sikpui Ruoi' has also evolved into a day to celebrate Hmar identity and unity, often held on December 5th.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to visit Hmar-inhabited areas like Churachandpur is during the dry, cooler months from October to March. The weather is pleasant, and the landscape is still green from the recent monsoon. To experience the culture at its most vivid, plan your visit to coincide with the Sikpui Ruoi festival in early December. Christmas is another major celebration, marked by community services, feasting, and singing that lasts for days.

How to Reach

The primary hub to access Hmar areas in Manipur is the city of Imphal.

• By Air: The nearest airport is Tulihal Airport (IMF) in Imphal, which is well-connected to major Indian cities like Delhi, Kolkata, and Guwahati.
• By Rail: Manipur does not have a major railhead. The closest large railway station is in Dimapur, Nagaland (215 km from Imphal). From Dimapur, one must travel to Imphal by road (a 7-8 hour journey).
• By Road: From Imphal, Churachandpur town, a major center for the Hmar and other Chin-Kuki-Mizo groups, is approximately 65 km south. The journey by shared taxi or private car takes about 2 to 3 hours.

Permits & Entry

• Indian Citizens: An Inner Line Permit (ILP) is mandatory for all Indian citizens who are not residents of Manipur to enter the state. The ILP can be applied for online at manipurilp.in or at designated counters in cities like Delhi, Kolkata, and Guwahati.
• Foreign Nationals: Foreigners require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) to enter Manipur. This is typically arranged through a registered tour operator. Always check the latest regulations before travel as rules can change.

Nearby Attractions

From the Churachandpur area, several destinations in Manipur are accessible:

• Loktak Lake: About 40 km from Churachandpur, this is the largest freshwater lake in Northeast India, famous for its 'phumdis' (floating islands) and Keibul Lamjao National Park.
• Imphal City: The state capital offers historical sites like the Kangla Fort, the unique Ima Keithel (all-women's market), and the INA Memorial Museum at Moirang.
• Andro: A village near Imphal known for its cultural heritage complex and traditional pottery-making, offering a glimpse into Manipuri folk traditions.
• Thalon Cave: Located in the Tamenglong district, this is one of Manipur's significant historical cave systems, though reaching it requires a dedicated trip from Churachandpur.

Traveller Tips

• Carry sufficient cash. ATMs are available in Churachandpur town but can be unreliable; they are scarce in rural villages.
• Mobile connectivity is decent in towns (Airtel, Jio) but expect poor to no signal in more remote areas.
• The Hmar are a predominantly Christian community. Dress modestly, especially if you plan to visit a church or attend a community event.
• Always ask for permission before taking photographs of people or during ceremonies.
• Sunday is a day of rest and worship. Most shops will be closed, and it's best to avoid scheduling travel or major activities.
• Try local dishes. Hmar cuisine is flavourful, often featuring boiled vegetables, rice, and meats (pork, chicken) with minimal oil. Sa-um (fermented meat) is a local delicacy.
• Learn a few basic words. “I dam naw?” (How are you?) and “Ka lawm e” (Thank you) will be warmly received.
• Engage a local guide in Churachandpur to navigate the villages and understand the nuances of the culture and history.