Old Rumtek

The road to Old Rumtek curves through forested slopes, the air thinning as prayer flags begin to flutter from an increasing number of trees. Unlike its larger, more famous namesake, the original monastery maintains a quieter presence. Far from the pilgrimage throngs, this site offers a glimpse into a foundational piece of Sikkim's Drukpa Kagyu history, its weathered structures speaking of centuries of devotion and change.

History & Context

The monastery, established in 1730 by the ninth Karmapa, Wangchuk Dorje, served as a primary seat of the Drukpa Kagyu order in Sikkim for over two centuries. It predates the considerably larger Dharmachakra Centre, or New Rumtek Monastery, which was built in the 1960s after the 16th Karmapa's arrival in Sikkim. Old Rumtek was a functional monastery and a centre for monastic education before the political upheavals in Tibet led to the establishment of the new seat. Its construction was a significant event for the propagation of Buddhism in the region, anchoring the Drukpa Kagyu school firmly within the Sikkimese landscape. While the new monastery draws international attention, the older site holds its own historical weight, representing the continuous spiritual lineage that has shaped the area.

What Makes It Distinctive

Old Rumtek offers a tangible contrast to its modern counterpart. Its age is apparent in the traditional Sikkimese monastic architecture, featuring intricately painted walls and wooden structures that have absorbed centuries of ritual lamp smoke. Inside, visitors can find older murals and thankas, some dating back to the monastery's founding. The gompa houses various deities and scriptures, some of which are not commonly found in newer establishments. The atmosphere here is one of quiet contemplation, often with only a few resident monks. This allows for a more personal experience of the monastic life and architecture, removed from the larger crowds. The subtle details in its carpentry and the fading frescoes tell a story of artistic tradition interwoven with spiritual practice.

Best Time to Visit

The spring months of March to May offer pleasant weather, clear skies, and blooming rhododendrons, making for comfortable exploration. Temperatures range from 15°C to 25°C. Autumn, from September to November, is also ideal, with crisp air and excellent visibility for mountain views, ranging from 10°C to 20°C. Summers (June-August) bring monsoon rains, which can cause landslides and muddy conditions, while winters (December-February) are cold, with temperatures often dropping below 5°C, making some roads challenging but offering a serene, snow-dusted landscape.

How to Reach

The monastery is located approximately 24 kilometers from Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim.

• Nearest Airport: Pakyong Airport (PYG), Sikkim, is about 30-40 km away. Bagdogra Airport (IXB) in West Bengal is the major international hub, approximately 125 km (4-5 hours drive) from Gangtok.
• Nearest Railhead: New Jalpaiguri (NJP) in West Bengal, approximately 120 km (4-5 hours drive) from Gangtok. Shared taxis and private vehicles are readily available from both IXB and NJP to Gangtok.
• By Road: From Gangtok, private taxis or shared jeeps can be hired to reach the monastery. The drive takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, depending on road conditions. The route is accessible by road directly to the monastery premises.

Permits & Entry

For Indian nationals, no special permits are required to visit Old Rumtek. Foreign nationals require a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) to enter Sikkim. This permit can be obtained on arrival at Bagdogra Airport, Rangpo Check Post, or from the Sikkim House offices in major Indian cities. Once in Sikkim, no further special permits are needed for the monastery itself. Entry to the monastery premises is free of charge. Information on opening hours is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

• New Rumtek Monastery (Dharmachakra Centre): This larger, more prominent monastery is just a short drive away and showcases the Tibetan monastic tradition.
• Jawaharlal Nehru Botanical Garden: Located near New Rumtek, it houses a variety of orchids and temperate plants, ideal for a tranquil walk.
• Gangtok: The capital city with attractions like M.G. Marg, Enchey Monastery, and Hanuman Tok.
• Do Drul Chorten: A significant stupa in Gangtok, surrounded by 108 prayer wheels.
• Tsomgo Lake: A sacred glacial lake, approximately 40 km from Gangtok, known for its changing colours and scenic beauty.

Traveller Tips

1. Carry warm clothing, especially during mornings and evenings, even in summer, as mountain weather can be unpredictable.
2. Maintain silence and respect monastic etiquette while inside the prayer halls; photography inside religious structures may be restricted.
3. Wear comfortable walking shoes as there might be some uneven paths around the monastery.
4. Carry sufficient cash; ATM facilities are limited to Gangtok and larger towns.
5. Mobile connectivity can be intermittent or weak in the immediate vicinity of the monastery.
6. Consider hiring a local guide from Gangtok for deeper insights into the monastery's history and significance.
7. Try some local Sikkimese tea at a nearby tea stall for a refreshing break.