Smit

The air in the highlands east of Shillong shifts. It carries the scent of pine and damp earth, a precursor to the scattered villages that define the Khasi Hills. One of these, Smit, holds a unique and undiluted cultural authority. It is not merely a settlement but the traditional administrative seat of the Hima Khyrim, one of the most significant ancestral Khasi states. This is where centuries-old traditions are not relics but the living, breathing rhythm of the community, governed by the Syiem (chief) and the profound rituals that tie the people to the land.

History & Context

The story of this village is the story of the Hima Khyrim, a pre-colonial sovereign state that has maintained its traditional institutions into the present day. Smit serves as its cultural and political heart. Governance flows from the Syiem, a male chief chosen from a specific clan, whose position is sanctified and legitimized through a matrilineal system. The succession and rituals are overseen by the Syiem Sad, the high priestess and elder sister of the Syiem, who is the custodian of the state's religious rites. This enduring structure makes a visit here a direct encounter with a system of indigenous governance that has weathered centuries of change.

What Makes It Distinctive

Smit's identity is anchored by two elements: the Iing Sad and the Nongkrem Festival. The Iing Sad is the official residence of the Syiem Sad and the spiritual nucleus of the Hima. This remarkable building, an elongated, apsidal-ended structure made of wood and bamboo, is constructed entirely without the use of metal nails, held together by natural fibre ties. Its high-pitched thatched roof is a defining feature of the landscape.

This house becomes the epicentre of Ka Pomblang Syiem, popularly known as the Nongkrem Festival. Held annually, this five-day thanksgiving ceremony is performed to appease the ancestors and the deity of the land, U Blei Shillong, for a bountiful harvest and prosperity. The festival involves the 'Pomblang' or goat sacrifice, overseen by the Syiem. Its public-facing highlight is the Nongkrem dance. Unmarried women, adorned in intricate silver jewellery and traditional silk attire ('jainsem'), perform the slow, shuffling Ka Shad Kynthei. In contrast, men, holding swords and whisks, circle them with the energetic and protective Ka Shad Mastieh. It's a powerful display of community identity, faith, and artistic heritage.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to experience the cultural vibrancy is during the Nongkrem Festival, which typically takes place in October or November. The weather during these post-monsoon months is clear and pleasant, with sunny days and cool evenings.

Spring, from March to May, is also an excellent time to visit. The skies are generally clear, offering expansive views of the surrounding hills, and the temperature is comfortable for exploring the countryside.

The monsoon season (June to September) sees heavy rainfall, which can cause travel disruptions, but also clothes the landscape in a lush, dramatic green.

How to Reach

• By Air: The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Guwahati, Assam, approximately 115 km away (a 3.5 to 4-hour drive). Shillong Airport (SHL) at Umroi is much closer but has limited flight connectivity.
• By Rail: The nearest major railway station is Guwahati (GHY). From Guwahati, one can hire a taxi or take a shared cab to Shillong.
• By Road: Smit is located about 15 km east of Shillong, the state capital of Meghalaya. The drive from Shillong's city centre takes approximately 45-60 minutes via the Shillong-Jowai road.

Permits & Entry

No Inner Line Permit (ILP) or Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required for Indian citizens to visit any part of Meghalaya, including Smit. Foreign nationals should also not require special permits for the East Khasi Hills region, but it's always wise to check the latest regulations with the Bureau of Immigration, Government of India.

Entry to the Iing Sad may be restricted outside of festival times. Information is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

• Laitlum Canyons: Located about 10-12 km from Smit, this viewpoint offers spectacular panoramic views of deep gorges and rolling green hills.
• Shillong: The state capital offers numerous attractions, including the Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures, Ward's Lake, and the lively markets of Police Bazar.
• Jaintia Hills: Driving further on the same highway (NH6) leads towards the Jaintia Hills, home to the Nartiang Monoliths, a significant site of ancient megalithic culture.
• Sweet Falls (Kshaid Weitden): A very steep and powerful waterfall located near Happy Valley, a short drive from the main road to Smit. Viewing is from a distance due to its dangerous reputation.

Traveller Tips

• If visiting for the Nongkrem Festival, arrive early to find a good vantage point as it gets very crowded.
• Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially during religious ceremonies. Respectful observation is key.
• Carry sufficient cash. While Shillong has plenty of ATMs, options in and around Smit are limited.
• Mobile connectivity can be inconsistent. Airtel and Jio generally have the best coverage in the region.
• Dress in layers. The weather can change quickly in the hills, with cool mornings and evenings even on sunny days.
• When visiting the Iing Sad or during the festival, dress modestly out of respect for the cultural and religious significance of the place.
• Learn a few Khasi words. 'Khublei' (pronounced khub-lay) serves as both 'hello' and 'thank you' and is always appreciated.
• Try local Khasi dishes like 'jadoh' (rice and meat dish) or 'dohkhlieh' (pork salad) at small eateries on the way from Shillong.