Kongthong

The air in this corner of Meghalaya’s East Khasi Hills carries more than the scent of broom grass and wild honey; it carries names. From across the valleys, a mother’s call to her child isn't a spoken word but a melodic phrase, a unique snatch of birdsong that identifies them alone. This is the everyday reality of Kongthong, a village bound not just by kinship and land, but by a living tradition of musical names.

Here, when a child is born, the mother composes a special tune, a loving sound that becomes their identity. This practice is known as Jingrwai Iawbei, which translates roughly to the 'Song of the Clan’s First Woman'. It is an intimate expression of maternal love and a practical tool for communication across the steep, forested terrain where the villagers spend their days farming.

History & Context

The village is one of a dozen that form the Khat-ar Shnong confederacy, a cluster of Khasi communities that have long inhabited these ridges. The origins of Jingrwai Iawbei are rooted in oral history, passed down through generations within Meghalaya's matrilineal society. Elders believe the tradition also served as a way to communicate while hunting or foraging in the dense forests, allowing villagers to call to one another without alerting dangerous animals, using tunes that mimic the sounds of nature. The practice ensures that each individual has a melody that is theirs for life, a sonic signature that echoes through the hills.

What Makes It Distinctive

The core of the village's identity is the dual-name system. Every person has a conventional, spoken name and a musical name, or sur. The sur itself has two forms: a long, elaborate melody called the sur iawbei, which is akin to a full name sung with deep affection, and a shorter, simpler version, the sur khot, used for everyday calls. This musical language is not merely functional; it is an art form, an expression of identity, and a profound connection between a mother, her child, and the landscape. In 2021, this unique cultural heritage received global recognition when the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) named Kongthong as one of its 'Best Tourism Villages', lauding its commitment to preserving its culture and promoting sustainable, community-led tourism.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal period to visit is during the post-monsoon and winter months, from October to May. During this time, the skies are generally clear, the weather is pleasant, and the roads are more reliable. The landscape is a vibrant green after the rains. The monsoon season, from June to September, sees heavy rainfall which can cause landslides and make travel challenging, though the region's waterfalls are at their most powerful.

How to Reach

• By Air: The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU) in Guwahati, Assam, approximately 160 km away. From Guwahati, it is a 3-4 hour drive to Shillong. Shillong also has a smaller airport (SHL) at Umroi with limited connectivity.
• By Rail: The nearest major railway station is Guwahati (GHY). From the station, you can hire a taxi or take a shared vehicle to Shillong.
• By Road: Kongthong is located about 56-60 km from Shillong. The drive from Shillong takes around 3 hours due to the winding, hilly roads. It is best to hire a dedicated taxi from Shillong for the round trip or for a drop-off.

Permits & Entry

For Indian citizens, no Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to enter Meghalaya. For foreign nationals, no Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is needed to visit Kongthong and the surrounding East Khasi Hills region.

Nearby Attractions

• Laitlum Canyons: A spectacular viewpoint offering vast panoramas of the surrounding gorges and valleys, located on the route towards Shillong.
• Nongriat: Famous for its living root bridges, including the spectacular Double Decker Bridge, requiring a significant trek from the nearest road point.
• Mawlynnong: Known as one of Asia's cleanest villages, offering a glimpse into community-driven cleanliness and living root bridges.
• Dawki: A border town famous for the crystal-clear waters of the Umngot River, where boating is a popular activity.
• Sohra (Cherrapunji): A short drive away, this area is famed for its dramatic waterfalls like Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters Falls, as well as the Mawsmai Caves.
• Smit: The cultural centre of the Khasi chiefs and the site of the annual Nongkrem festival, offering insights into traditional Khasi governance and rituals.

Traveller Tips

• Book accommodation in advance, as the village has a limited number of community-run homestays.
• Carry sufficient cash. There are no ATMs in the village, and digital payments are not an option.
• Mobile connectivity is extremely poor. BSNL may have a faint signal, but do not rely on it.
• Ask for permission before you photograph or record anyone, especially their musical names. This is their personal identity.
• Hire a local guide. They are trained by the community and can facilitate respectful interaction and explain the nuances of the culture.
• Wear comfortable walking shoes with good grip, as you will be exploring hilly terrain.
• Pack a light rain jacket and warm layers, as the weather in the hills can change suddenly.
• Embrace the local Khasi food offered at your homestay; it's a core part of the experience.