Gurung people

The sharp, percussive clang of a cymbal cuts through the mountain air, followed by the steady, hypnotic beat of a dholak drum. This is often the first introduction a traveller has to the Gurung people of Sikkim, a community whose cultural roots run as deep as the Himalayan valleys they now call home. Originally pastoralists and shifting cultivators from the highlands west of Nepal, their history is intertwined with both shamanistic traditions and the discipline of the legendary Gurkha regiments. In Sikkim, they form a significant part of the state's Nepali community, having migrated here in the 19th and 20th centuries, yet they retain a distinct identity known as 'Tamu'.

History & Context

The Gurungs trace their lineage back to a Tibeto-Burman group that moved south into Nepal from the Tibetan plateau. Their oral histories, passed down in epic songs called Pye-ta Lhu-ta, speak of a proto-shamanistic Bön faith, which continues to influence their worldview despite the widespread adoption of Tibetan Buddhism and elements of Hinduism. Their society is organized into patrilineal clans, most notably the 'Char Jat' (four clans) and 'Sora Jat' (sixteen clans). Their arrival in Sikkim was part of a broader migration of Nepali-speaking groups seeking land and opportunities, and they quickly established themselves as skilled farmers and soldiers, contributing significantly to the state's development.

What Makes It Distinctive

While the community celebrates several festivals, the most unique cultural performance is the Ghatu dance (घाटु नाच). This ritual folk dance, performed by pre-pubescent girls called Ghatunis, is a trance-like enactment of an ancient story involving a king and queen. The performance can last for days, and the dancers are believed to be possessed by divine spirits, moving with closed eyes to the haunting rhythm of music and chants. The Ghatu is not mere entertainment; it's a sacred rite performed to ensure prosperity and ward off evil. Alongside the Ghatu, the Sorathi dance, another folk ballet telling a different epic, and the traditional Rodi Ghar—a communal house for socializing and cultural activities—are cornerstones of their identity.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to experience Gurung culture is during their new year festival, Tamu Lhosar, which falls in late December or early January. This is when communities gather in their finest traditional attire for feasting, music, and dance. For general travel in Sikkim, the spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November) offer clear skies, pleasant weather, and stunning views of the Himalayas. Spring is particularly beautiful, with rhododendrons in full bloom across the state.

How to Reach

The Gurung community is present in various parts of Sikkim, particularly in the South, West, and East districts. The primary gateway to the state is its capital, Gangtok.

• By Air: The closest major airport is Bagdogra Airport (IXB) in West Bengal, approximately 124 km (4-5 hours drive) from Gangtok. Sikkim's own Pakyong Airport (PYG) has limited flight connectivity.
• By Rail: The nearest major railway station is New Jalpaiguri (NJP) in West Bengal, located about 120 km (4-5 hours drive) from Gangtok.
• By Road: From Bagdogra or NJP, you can hire exclusive taxis or shared sumos to reach Gangtok. The route follows NH10 along the Teesta River, a scenic but sometimes landslide-prone road.

Permits & Entry

• Indian Citizens: No Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required to enter Sikkim.
• Foreign Nationals: A Restricted Area Permit (RAP), also known as an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for foreigners, is mandatory. This is usually obtainable on arrival at the Rangpo or Melli check posts for visitors with a valid Indian visa. It is typically granted for an initial period of 30 days. Certain areas near international borders (like parts of North Sikkim and high-altitude areas in East Sikkim like Nathu La) require a separate Protected Area Permit (PAP), which must be arranged through a registered travel agency in Gangtok.

Nearby Attractions

From Gurung villages or the main hub of Gangtok, you can explore several key sites in Sikkim:

1. Gangtok: The state capital offers the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology, Ropeway, and MG Marg for food and shopping.
2. Rumtek Monastery: One of the most significant monasteries of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism, located about 24 km from Gangtok.
3. Tsomgo Lake (Changu Lake): A stunning glacial lake at an altitude of 12,400 ft, requiring a separate permit for all visitors.
4. Hee Bermiok: A village in West Sikkim known for its homestays and proximity to mountain views and nature trails.
5. Pelling: Offers breathtaking views of Kangchenjunga and is a base for visiting Pemayangtse Monastery.
6. Sikkim Himalayan Zoological Park: Located in Bulbuley, it houses rare Himalayan fauna like the Red Panda and Snow Leopard in a semi-natural habitat.

Traveller Tips

1. Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially elders or during religious rituals like the Ghatu dance.
2. Nepali is the lingua franca in Sikkim and is widely understood in Gurung communities. A simple 'Namaste' (hello) is appreciated.
3. Carry sufficient cash, especially when travelling to rural areas, as ATMs can be unreliable.
4. If visiting for Tamu Lhosar, be prepared for crowds and book accommodations in advance.
5. When invited into a home, it is polite to remove your shoes at the door.
6. Try their local cuisine, which includes dishes like sel roti (a ring-shaped bread), fermented soybean (kinema), and various millet-based beverages.
7. Mobile connectivity can be patchy outside of major towns. BSNL and Airtel generally have the best coverage.
8. Respect the syncretic religious practices; you will often see Buddhist prayer flags alongside altars for local deities.