Jaintia (Pnar) people

Keepers of a matrilineal kingdom and the monumental monoliths of Meghalaya's eastern hills.

The air in Jowai thickens with anticipation, a mix of monsoon humidity and the scent of wet earth. Down in the valley, at a sacred pool called Aitnar, crowds surge as men, slick with mud, dance with ritualistic fervour. This is Behdienkhlam, the vibrant cultural peak of the Jaintia people, and the most visceral introduction to their world. Also known as the Pnar, this community has shaped the eastern hills of Meghalaya for centuries, leaving behind a legacy not just in festivals, but in stone monoliths and a unique social structure.

History & Context

The Pnar are part of the larger Hynniewtrep ethnic group, which also includes the Khasi people. Their history is most prominently defined by the Jaintia Kingdom, a powerful mediaeval state that, until the 19th century, controlled not only the present-day Jaintia Hills but also a large, fertile territory in the plains of the Surma Valley, in what is now Bangladesh. The kingdom's capital was at Jaintiapur in the plains, from where it controlled lucrative trade in cotton, iron, and betel nuts.

This era came to an abrupt end in 1835. Citing the kingdom's alleged practice of human sacrifice and the capture of British subjects, the British East India Company annexed the plains territory. Deprived of its economic heartland, the Jaintia king declined to rule over only the hills, and the region was formally absorbed into British India. The administrative focus shifted to Jowai, which remains the principal town of the Jaintia Hills today.

What Makes It Distinctive

The most defining characteristic of Pnar society is its robust matrilineal system. Lineage, name, and inheritance are all traced through the mother's side. The youngest daughter, known as Ka Khadduh, is the traditional custodian of the family's ancestral property and the performer of religious rites for the family's well-being. While men move to their wives' homes after marriage, the maternal uncle (U Kni) retains a significant advisory and ceremonial role in his sister's family.

Culturally, the most important event is the Behdienkhlam festival, usually celebrated in July. The name translates to "chasing away the demon of plague." It is a spectacular post-sowing festival invoking divine blessings for a bountiful harvest and community health. The climax involves men from different localities carrying towering, intricately decorated bamboo structures called 'rots' to the sacred Aitnar pool. The festival culminates in a ritualistic football-like game played with a wooden ball, known as 'dat-lawakor'. Winning is believed to forecast a year of good fortune for the victorious locality.

Best Time to Visit

October to May: This is the ideal period for general exploration. The monsoon has retreated, leaving the landscape lush and green. The weather is pleasant and dry, perfect for visiting waterfalls and the Nartiang monoliths.

June to September: This is the monsoon season. While rainfall is heavy and can cause travel disruptions, it is also when the landscape is at its most dramatic. The waterfalls are at full power. Crucially, the Behdienkhlam festival takes place in July, making this a compelling, if wet, time to visit for cultural immersion.

How to Reach

The Jaintia Hills are best accessed from Guwahati, Assam, via Shillong.

By Air: The nearest major airport is Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport in Guwahati (GAU), approximately 170 km / 5-6 hours drive from Jowai. Shillong Airport (SHL) at Umroi is much closer but has limited flight connectivity.
By Rail: Guwahati Railway Station (GHY) is the closest major railhead. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared taxi to Shillong.
By Road: From Guwahati, it's a 100 km / ~3-hour drive to Shillong. From Shillong, Jowai (the headquarters of West Jaintia Hills) is another 65 km / ~2-hour drive on NH6. Shared taxis are readily available from Anjali Stand in Shillong.

Permits & Entry

Meghalaya does not require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Indian citizens. Foreign nationals also do not typically require special permits for the main tourist areas of the Jaintia Hills. However, entry fees may be applicable for specific sites like waterfalls or protected community forests. Information is not officially published or may change. Visitors are advised to confirm locally before travelling.

Nearby Attractions

Nartiang Monoliths: Home to the largest collection of monoliths in Meghalaya, these ancient stones were erected by a Jaintia lieutenant, U Mar Phalyngki, representing market days and historical events.
Krang Suri Waterfall: A stunning waterfall with a crystal-clear blue plunge pool, located near the village of Amlarem.
Tyrshi Falls: A majestic waterfall near Jowai, often compared to the more famous Elephant Falls in Shillong, offering panoramic views of the Pynthor Nein rice valley.
Umngot River, Dawki: Located on the border with Bangladesh, this river is famous for its astonishingly clear water, giving the impression that boats are floating in mid-air.
Laitlum Canyons: While technically in the East Khasi Hills, it's an accessible and spectacular detour on the way from Shillong, offering vast gorge views.

Traveller Tips

Carry sufficient cash. ATMs are sparse outside of Jowai and Khliehriat towns.
Pack for rain, regardless of the season. A waterproof jacket and quick-drying clothes are essential.
Always ask for permission before photographing people, especially during festivals or private ceremonies.
Learn a few basic phrases. "Khublei" (pronounced khub-lay) means hello, goodbye, and thank you, and is universally appreciated.
Respect the matrilineal customs. In homestays or interactions, be aware that female elders and the youngest daughter hold authority.
Road conditions can be challenging, especially during the monsoon. Factor in extra time for travel.
Sample local Pnar cuisine. Ask for Jadoh (rice and meat dish), dohkhlieh (pork salad), and tungrymbai (fermented soybean chutney).
Be mindful of timings. Many shops and eateries in smaller villages close early in the evening.

Living Roots Expert Notes

We time our cultural immersion trips to the Jaintia Hills to coincide with Behdienkhlam in July. It's a logistical challenge due to the monsoon, but the reward is witnessing a tradition that is utterly alive and not performed for tourists. Our guests are always struck by the raw energy of the event, a powerful counterpoint to the serenity of the surrounding hills.

Beyond the festival, what we emphasize is understanding the matrilineal system in practice. When we facilitate a stay in a Pnar home, we brief our guests on the roles of Ka Khadduh (the youngest daughter) and the U Kni (the maternal uncle). It's not just a theoretical concept; it shapes every social interaction, from who leads grace at a meal to how business decisions are made. A little awareness here transforms a simple stay into a profound lesson in social anthropology.

One thing only a repeat visitor knows is the distinct atmosphere in Jowai versus the rural areas. Jowai is a bustling, modern town, but drive just 30 minutes out and you're in a world of ancient groves and agricultural rhythms. We encourage walks through the paddy fields near a village called Thadlaskein, where a man-made lake has its own rich backstory connected to the Jaintia kings. It’s these quieter layers, away from the main attractions, that reveal the true soul of the land.

Frequently asked

Are the Jaintia and Khasi people the same?

No, but they are closely related. Both the Jaintia (Pnar) and Khasi people belong to the Hynniewtrep ethnic group and share a common ancestry, similar languages, and a matrilineal social system. They are distinct cultural groups with their own history and traditions, inhabiting different regions of Meghalaya.

What is the main religion of the Jaintia people?

The Jaintia people traditionally follow an indigenous religion called Niamtre. However, over the last century, a significant portion of the population has converted to Christianity. Both religious communities coexist, and Niamtre practices are most visibly expressed during festivals like Behdienkhlam.

Do I need a permit to visit the Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya?

No. Indian citizens do not need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to enter Meghalaya. Foreign nationals also do not need a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for the main tourist areas in the Jaintia Hills. You may need to pay small entry fees at specific tourist sites.

When is the best time to see the Behdienkhlam festival?

The Behdienkhlam festival is celebrated annually in July, coinciding with the peak monsoon season. While this means you should be prepared for heavy rain, it is the only time to witness this vibrant cultural event in its full glory.

What does a matrilineal system mean for a traveller visiting a homestay?

It means the lineage and property are held by women. In a homestay, the head of the household is often the mother or grandmother, and the youngest daughter is the designated heiress. You'll observe that women manage the family affairs, and the maternal uncle often holds a position of respect and authority.

What kind of food can I expect in the Jaintia Hills?

The cuisine is primarily meat-based, with pork being very popular. Expect dishes like *Jadoh* (rice cooked with meat), *Dohkhlieh* (a savoury salad made with pork), and various chutneys, including *Tungrymbai* (fermented soybeans). Vegetarian options are available but may be limited in rural areas.

Is solo travel safe in the Jaintia Hills?

Yes, the Jaintia Hills are generally considered safe for solo travellers, including women. The people are welcoming and hospitable. Standard precautions apply: avoid travelling on isolated roads late at night and inform someone of your itinerary.

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