Meyor people

A journey to India's easternmost roadhead at Kibithoo is a journey to the land of the Meyor people. Here, in the high, wind-scoured valleys of the Lohit River in Arunachal Pradesh’s Anjaw district, this small community lives a life shaped by altitude, weather, and proximity to the international border with China. Their villages, like Kaho, the last one on the Indian side, cling to the banks of the turquoise river, surrounded by steep, pine-covered slopes. Life moves at the pace of seasons, a world away from the rush of mainstream India.

History & Context

The Meyor are one of the smaller, lesser-known communities of Arunachal Pradesh, with a population numbering only a few thousand. Their oral traditions suggest a migration from the north, from areas in modern-day Tibet, centuries ago. For years, they were often grouped with their more numerous neighbours, the Mishmi tribes, but were officially recognised as a separate Scheduled Tribe by the Government of India, acknowledging their distinct linguistic and cultural identity. Their language, known as Zakhring, belongs to the Tibeto-Burman family, but its precise classification is a subject of academic discussion. Living in the Walong and Kibithoo circles, they have historically been custodians of the high-altitude passes and have coexisted with the Idu, Miju, and Digaru Mishmi communities who inhabit the lower elevations of the same district.

What Makes It Distinctive

The Meyor are predominantly followers of Mahayana Buddhism, an identity that sets them apart from the largely animist traditions of the Mishmi groups around them. Their villages feature simple but beautiful gompas (monasteries), prayer flags fluttering from homes, and stone mani walls inscribed with prayers. However, this Buddhism is woven with older, pre-Buddhist Bon beliefs, a syncretism common in Himalayan communities. A key cultural event is the Lhachhutt festival, a harvest celebration held after the millet and other crops are brought in, marked by community feasts, traditional dances, and religious rites performed by the local Lama. Their skill in crafting durable, intricate cane and bamboo products, from baskets to traditional suspension bridges, is another hallmark of their self-sufficient lifestyle.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to travel to Anjaw district is during the post-monsoon months of October and November, when the skies are clear, the air is crisp, and the landscape is still green. Another good window is from March to May, before the monsoon arrives in late May/early June. Winters (December to February) are extremely cold, with snowfall in higher areas potentially blocking roads. The monsoon season (June to September) is best avoided due to heavy rainfall, which causes frequent landslides and makes road travel hazardous and unpredictable.

How to Reach

Reaching the Meyor heartland is a long but spectacular road journey.

• By Air: The nearest major airport is Dibrugarh Airport (DIB) in Assam, approximately 400 km away from the main administrative center of Hayuliang in Anjaw district.
• By Rail: The closest railway station is New Tinsukia Junction (NTSK) in Assam, around 150 km from Tezu.
• By Road: This is a multi-day journey. From Dibrugarh/Tinsukia, you must first drive to Tezu (the former district HQ of Lohit), which takes about 4-5 hours. From Tezu, the road continues to Hayuliang, the headquarters of Anjaw district (approx. 100 km / 4-5 hours). The Meyor villages are further north from Hayuliang, primarily around Walong and Kibithoo. The drive from Hayuliang to Walong is another 4-5 hours (approx. 85 km). The entire journey from Dibrugarh to Walong can take at least two full days of driving.

Permits & Entry

• Indian Citizens: All domestic tourists from outside Arunachal Pradesh must obtain an Inner Line Permit (ILP). This can be applied for online via the official Arunachal Pradesh ILP portal or obtained from government offices in cities like Guwahati, Shillong, and Delhi.
• Foreign Nationals: All foreign tourists must obtain a Protected Area Permit (PAP). This is usually processed by an approved local tour operator and requires travelling in a group of at least two. Solo travel on a PAP may be possible but requires special permission.

Nearby Attractions

• Kibithoo: One of India's easternmost motorable villages, offering stunning views of the Lohit river and the surrounding mountains.
• Walong War Memorial: A solemn memorial dedicated to the soldiers of the Indian Army who lost their lives during the 1962 Sino-Indian War.
• Dong Village: A short trek from Walong, famous for being the place that purportedly receives the 'first sunrise' in India.
• Lohit River: The powerful river itself is an attraction, with its turquoise waters carving through the deep gorge.
• Kaho Village: The last village on the Indian side of the border before China, offering a glimpse into the resilient life of the Meyor community.

Traveller Tips

1. This is a very remote region. Carry enough cash for your entire trip; there are no ATMs beyond Tezu, and even that one can be unreliable.
2. Mobile connectivity is extremely patchy and often non-existent. BSNL postpaid may work in some administrative towns, but do not rely on it.
3. Acclimatize properly. The journey involves significant altitude gains. Stay hydrated and ascend slowly.
4. Accommodation is basic, consisting primarily of government guesthouses and a few homestays. Book well in advance through a local contact.
5. The roads are challenging and subject to weather conditions. Travel with an experienced local driver and a reliable vehicle (4WD is recommended).
6. Always ask for permission before photographing people or religious ceremonies. Respect their privacy and culture.
7. Pack layers of warm clothing, regardless of the season, as temperatures can drop suddenly.
8. Due to the area's strategic sensitivity, be cooperative with military and police checkpoints. Keep your permits and ID handy at all times.