Puroik (Sulung) people

A Story in a Name

The story of the Puroik people is one of profound transformation, encapsulated in the very name they now proudly carry. For generations, they were known to outsiders by the name 'Sulung,' a term associated with servitude and subjugation by larger neighbouring tribes. The official adoption of 'Puroik,' meaning 'man' in their own language, marks a conscious break from a painful past and a powerful assertion of identity. Found scattered across the forested hills of East Kameng, Kurung Kumey, Kra Daadi, and Papum Pare districts, the community is rewriting its own narrative, moving from the margins of Arunachali society towards a future of self-determination.

History & Context

The history of the Puroik is unlike that of most other indigenous groups in Arunachal Pradesh. For centuries, they were held in a system of bonded labour, often described as a master-servant relationship, by more dominant tribes like the Nyishi and the Miji (Aka). Under this system, Puroik families were considered the property of their masters, performing agricultural and domestic labour with little to no autonomy. Their livelihood was traditionally based on hunting, gathering, and processing sago palm, but their freedom was severely curtailed.

This historical arrangement began to change significantly after Indian independence. In the latter half of the 20th century, the Indian government made concerted efforts to emancipate the Puroik people. A landmark step was the introduction of the Arunachal Pradesh Puroik (Liberation & Rehabilitation) Bill, which officially abolished the system of bondage and aimed to provide land and resources for their rehabilitation. Though the socio-economic effects of this history linger, the legal and social liberation has allowed the community to establish their own villages, pursue education, and engage with the wider world on their own terms.

What Makes It Distinctive

Beyond their unique social history, the Puroik possess an encyclopedic knowledge of the forest, which has been their primary source of sustenance. A defining feature of their traditional culture is the extraction and processing of starch from the sago palm (Caryota urens). Known locally as rangbang, the palm's pith is painstakingly mashed, washed, and filtered to produce a flour called tassey. This staple food, a testament to their survival skills in a challenging environment, is often cooked into a thick, nutritious paste. This intricate process, a form of forest-based agriculture, sets them apart and highlights their ingenuity and deep ecological connection.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to travel to the districts where the Puroik live, such as East Kameng and Kra Daadi, is during the dry, post-monsoon months from October to April.

• October to November: The weather is pleasant and clear after the rains, with lush green landscapes.
• December to February: Days are cool and sunny, but nights can be quite cold. This is an excellent time for trekking and clear mountain views.
• March to April: The weather warms up, and rhododendrons and other flowers begin to bloom, particularly in higher altitude areas.

Monsoon season, from May to September, brings heavy rainfall, making road travel extremely difficult due to landslides and poor road conditions.

How to Reach

Accessing Puroik villages typically involves reaching a district headquarters like Seppa (East Kameng) or Palin (Kra Daadi) first.

To reach Seppa (East Kameng):

• Nearest Airport: Donyi Polo Airport, Itanagar (HGI), approx. 280 km from Seppa. From the airport, hire a taxi. Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport in Guwahati (GAU) is a larger hub, about 380 km away.
• Nearest Railhead: Naharlagun Railway Station, approx. 265 km from Seppa.
• By Road: Seppa is connected by road from Guwahati via Tezpur and Bhalukpong. The journey from Tezpur to Seppa is roughly 150 km and can take 6-8 hours by shared or private taxi due to challenging road conditions.

To reach Palin (Kra Daadi):

• Nearest Airport: Donyi Polo Airport, Itanagar (HGI), about 120 km away.
• Nearest Railhead: Naharlagun Railway Station, about 110 km away.
• By Road: From Itanagar/Naharlagun, Palin is a drive of about 4-5 hours via Yazali and Ziro.

Travel to the specific villages requires further local transport, usually shared Sumos or private vehicle hire from the district town.

Permits & Entry

• Indian Citizens: An Inner Line Permit (ILP) is mandatory for all Indian citizens (from outside Arunachal Pradesh) to enter the state. This can be obtained online through the official Arunachal Pradesh ILP portal or in person at government offices in cities like Guwahati, Delhi, and Kolkata.
• Foreign Nationals: A Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required for all foreign tourists. This is typically arranged by a local tour operator and is granted to groups of two or more people. Solo travel for foreigners is generally not permitted.

Nearby Attractions

If your visit is focused around the East Kameng region, several nearby attractions offer a broader perspective on the area's natural beauty.

1. Pakke Tiger Reserve: A celebrated wildlife sanctuary known for its conservation of tigers, clouded leopards, and four species of hornbills. It's a prime destination for birdwatching and wildlife enthusiasts.
2. Sessa Orchid Sanctuary: Home to over 200 species of orchids, including many rare and endemic varieties. A must-visit for botanists and nature lovers, especially during the blooming season (April-May).
3. Bhalukpong: A small town on the Assam-Arunachal border, serving as a gateway to the region. It's located on the banks of the Kameng River and is popular for angling and river rafting.
4. Dirang: Though a few hours further west, this valley is famed for its Monpa culture, apple orchards, and the historic Dirang Dzong. It offers a cultural contrast to the Puroik areas.

Traveller Tips

1. Engage Ethically: The history of the Puroik is sensitive. Approach interactions with humility, respect, and genuine curiosity. Avoid questions that could be perceived as intrusive or patronizing.
2. Photography with Permission: Always ask for explicit permission before taking photographs of people or their homes. A respectful gesture goes a long way.
3. Cash is Essential: There are very few ATMs outside of district headquarters like Seppa or Palin. Carry sufficient cash for all your expenses.
4. No Connectivity: Expect zero mobile network or internet in the villages. Even in district towns, connectivity can be patchy. Inform your family of your travel plans in advance.
5. Basic Accommodation: Accommodation will be very basic, likely in government guesthouses (if available) or simple homestays. Do not expect luxury amenities.
6. Support Local Economy: If you wish to give something, consider buying local crafts or produce rather than giving cash handouts. This fosters a relationship of dignity and trade.
7. Learn a Few Words: Learning a simple greeting like "Aaro ko?" (How are you?) in Puroik can be a wonderful icebreaker. In general, broken Hindi is widely understood.
8. Hire a Local Guide: A guide from the community or the region is invaluable for navigating, translating, and understanding the cultural context of what you are seeing.