Reang (Bru) people

Known as the 'dancing tribe' of Tripura, the Reang community balances a history of displacement with the enduring grace of their Hojagiri dance.

A hushed crowd watches as a young woman, adorned in coins and colourful beads, places a bottle on her head with an oil lamp balanced on top. She begins to move, not with the frenetic energy of many folk dances, but with a slow, hypnotic grace. Her lower body sways and contorts, her feet rhythmically tapping, but her head remains perfectly still, the flame unwavering. This is Hojagiri, the soul of the Reang people's culture, an art form that embodies their community's poise and resilience.

Also known as Bru, they are the second-largest tribal community in Tripura and are also found in parts of Mizoram and Assam. Their recent history is a defining, and often tragic, part of their identity.

History & Context

Oral traditions trace the Reang origin to a senior wife of a Tripuri king who was exiled, with her followers, from the capital. More historical accounts suggest they migrated from the Chittagong Hill Tracts of present-day Bangladesh into southern Tripura centuries ago. A significant population also settled in neighbouring Mizoram.

Their modern story is shaped by displacement. In the late 1990s, ethnic tensions in Mizoram forced tens of thousands of Bru-Reang people to flee into North Tripura, where they lived for over two decades in temporary relief camps. This long period of statelessness and hardship finally came to an end in January 2020 with a historic quadripartite agreement between the Government of India, the state governments of Tripura and Mizoram, and Bru-Reang representatives. The agreement facilitated the permanent settlement of these displaced families across several locations in Tripura, marking a pivotal moment in their history.

What Makes It Distinctive

The Hojagiri dance is the most visible and captivating aspect of Reang culture. Performed by four to six young women, it's a dance of balance and slow, difficult movements. While the lower body moves in complex patterns, sometimes while sitting or lying on an earthen pitcher, props like bottles, lamps, and plates are balanced on their heads. The dance, which depicts the entire process of jhum (shifting) cultivation, is performed during the Buisu festival, their most important annual celebration marking the end of the harvest season.

Beyond dance, their social structure is traditionally governed by a chief, the Rai, who holds supreme authority in the community. He is assisted by a council of elders who adjudicate on social and religious matters based on customary laws. This hierarchical system has been a cornerstone of their society for generations.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to experience Reang culture is during their main festival, Buisu, which is typically celebrated in April. This is a time of feasting, music, and dance. Alternatively, the post-monsoon winter months from October to February offer the most pleasant weather for exploring Tripura's rural landscapes where the community resides.

How to Reach

The Reang community is settled in several locations, primarily in the North Tripura and Dhalai districts. The main gateway to Tripura is Agartala's Maharaja Bir Bikram Airport (IXA) and the Agartala (AGTL) railway station.

To Dhalai District (Ambassa): From Agartala, the district headquarters of Ambassa is approximately 85 km away, a journey of 2.5 to 3 hours by car or bus.
To North Tripura District (Kanchanpur/Panisagar): To reach settlement areas like Kanchanpur, the drive from Agartala is much longer, around 180 km, taking 5 to 6 hours. The journey passes through scenic rural terrain.

Shared taxis and government buses connect Agartala to these district towns, from where further local transport may be required to reach specific villages.

Permits & Entry

Tripura is open to all visitors. No Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required for Indian citizens, and no Protected Area Permit (PAP) or Restricted Area Permit (RAP) is needed for foreign nationals to visit the state.

Nearby Attractions

Unakoti: Near North Tripura, this ancient Shaivite pilgrimage site features massive rock-cut carvings and stone images of gods and goddesses, set amidst a lush forest.
Jampui Hills: Known as the 'eternal hills of spring', this range offers panoramic views, orange orchards, and a glimpse into Mizo culture in the villages dotting the hills.
Chabimura (Devtamura): Located in Gomati district, this site features colossal rock carvings of deities on a steep river bank, best viewed by boat on the Gomati River.
Dumboor Lake: A vast, scenic water body with 48 islands, offering boating and a tranquil environment, located in the Dhalai district.
Pilak: An archaeological site in South Tripura with Buddhist and Hindu ruins dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries.

Traveller Tips

Given the recent history of displacement and resettlement, approach with sensitivity and respect. Always ask for permission before taking photographs of people or their homes.
Mobile connectivity can be weak to non-existent in the rural interiors. Inform your family of your itinerary beforehand.
Carry sufficient cash. ATMs are mostly found in district headquarters like Ambassa or Dharmanagar, not in the smaller villages.
Learn a few words in the local language. "Khumkha" is a common greeting.
Dress modestly, especially when visiting villages. Lightweight trousers and tops covering the shoulders are appropriate for all genders.
Try local cuisine, which heavily features bamboo shoots, pork, and rice. Be prepared for simple, rustic food.
Support local communities by purchasing handicrafts like woven textiles (pachra and risa) directly from artisans, if the opportunity arises.
Hire a local guide who understands the culture and can facilitate respectful interactions.

Living Roots Expert Notes

From an expedition leader's perspective, a visit to a Reang settlement is a deeply humbling experience. We intentionally move away from the 'tourist trail' to facilitate genuine, albeit brief, interactions that are respectful and non-transactional. Our guests are consistently moved by the community's resilience and the quiet dignity with which they have rebuilt their lives after decades of uncertainty.

One thing a repeat visitor learns is the subtle regional variations in their weaving and even in the performance of Hojagiri. While the core elements are the same, the energy and specific movements can differ from one settlement to another. We time our visits to coincide with the post-harvest season, not just for the pleasant weather, but because this is when the community has more time for cultural activities, and the chances of witnessing an impromptu song or dance practice are higher.

Our approach is always to work through a local contact or community elder. This ensures our presence is welcome and understood. We brief our guests extensively on ethical photography and the importance of not making promises that cannot be kept. The goal is observation and appreciation, not intervention or voyeurism.

Frequently asked

What is the difference between Reang and Bru?

Reang is the official name of the tribe as per the Constitution of India. Bru is the name they use to refer to themselves. The terms are often used interchangeably to describe the same community.

Is it safe to visit the Reang resettlement areas in Tripura?

Yes, it is generally safe. However, these are rural communities that have undergone significant hardship. Visitors should be respectful, travel with a local guide if possible, and avoid intrusive behaviour. It's an opportunity to witness a community's resilience, not a tourist spectacle.

What is the Hojagiri dance?

Hojagiri is a unique folk dance of the Reang community, performed by young women. It involves balancing props like lamps and bottles on their heads while performing slow, graceful, and contorting bodily movements, often depicting the stages of jhum cultivation.

What is the best time of year to visit Tripura to see Reang culture?

The best time is around April to witness the Buisu festival, their most important annual celebration. The winter months from October to February also offer pleasant weather for travelling through the state.

Do I need any special permits to visit Tripura?

No. Unlike some other Northeast Indian states, Tripura does not require an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Indian citizens or a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for foreign nationals.

What kind of etiquette should I follow when photographing the Reang people?

Always ask for explicit permission before taking anyone's picture, especially elders and children. Show them the photo you've taken as a sign of respect. Avoid treating people as subjects and engage in conversation first.

What is the main language spoken by the Reang people?

Their native language is Kau Bru, which belongs to the Tibeto-Burman language family. Many also speak Bengali, the official language of Tripura, and some may speak Kokborok or Hindi.

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