Three Monpa elders holding prayer beads outside a monastery courtyard in Tawang

Tribal Life

Patterns older than the nation-state.

More than 200 indigenous communities live across these hills, each with its own language, weave, and reckoning of the year. The portraits here are of people, not of types.

Terraced rice fields cascading below a Naga village in the hills of Nagaland

Mon district, Nagaland

The Konyak — The Last Headhunters

Until the 1960s · Living elders

The tattooed faces of the last Konyak headhunters are leaving us. We sat with three of them this winter. They spoke of the morung, the brass-and-glass headhunter's necklace, and the day the missionaries arrived.

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